Travel memoirist Bill Bryson once wrote: “We used to build civilizations. Now we build shopping malls.” And for many of us who celebrate the festive season by exchanging gifts, the shopping mall becomes a second home at this time of year.
But for us discerning travelers who would rather save our money for an Executive-first class ticket than buy one another something that will end up at the Salvation Army thrift shop in six months, we take a slightly different approach. The fact that we rarely spend Christmas at home (as discussed earlier in reference to a Christmas cruise!) does give us a bit of a distraction.
Leaving the house in the good hands of our house-sitter, we take very little in the way of gifts with us: we’ll do our shopping when we are on the ground in the south of France, and that shopping will be minimal. It’s the experience of shopping in Nice that we really like!
Nice is the closest thing to a ‘city’ that is within a reasonable taxi drive of where our son works in Monaco. About 30 minutes by cab from Monte Carlo, Nice has a population of fewer than 400,000 making it large enough to have shops, services and hotels in abundance, and small enough to be happily walkable. Add on to that its charming old quarter (Vieux Nice), its Christmas market and its fabulous festive decorations, and you end up with an experience that puts you in the Christmas spirit like nothing else can.
Le Palais de la mediteranee: Our home base in Nice
When we arrive in Nice, we’ll check into the hotel Palais de la mediteranée on the Promenade des Anglais that stretches about six kilometers along the beachfront. Then we’ll spend a day wandering the shopping streets and lunching at a pizzeria near the market. We’ll watch the Nice residents stroll on the boardwalk (it’s actually paved) and we’ll visit the local Galleries Lafayette, the famed department store. It’s not quite like its Parisian sibling, but it has three floors of ‘stuff’ that isn’t readily available in North America.
Then we’ll do some strolling of our own and watch the local residents pick up their Christmas trees from the lot on the waterfront, and wander among the snow-covered trees all around the place. Does it snow in the south of France at Christmas, you ask incredulously? No, it actually doesn’t. The snow is fake; those of us who reside in more northern climes always find it hilarious how snow seems to be worshipped as the very essence of Christmas. It’s clear no one along the French Riviera has ever had to spend a morning shoveling to get a car out of the garage.
After we pick up one present for each other and a few for the son, we’ll leave Nice behind us to head to Monte Carlo and a ballet premiere. When we get back, no doubt we’ll have more stories to tell!
Christmas tree lot along the Promenade des anglaisArt surrounded by "snow" covered evergreens in Nice.
Unless you live under a rock, you probably get the message that the “Christmas experience” of choice is to go home for the holidays. “I’ll be home for Christmas.” “Driving home for Christmas.” “There’s no place like home for the holidays.” It’s kind of hard to miss. But for these discerning travelers, Christmas beside the hearth at home hasn’t been in the cards for many years – not since our then-eleven-year-old son spent his first Christmas away from home performing in the National Ballet of Canada’s Nutcracker – and Christmas has never been the same since.
Many hotel rooms have played host to us on Christmas morning – and this year will be no different as we head to the French Riviera to spend the season once again with now twenty-two year old Ian who is once again dancing through the holidays. But—one of the most memorable Christmases we spent as a little family was the year the three of us (almost) skipped Christmas. We boarded a Holland America cruise ship at Port Everglades in Florida and sailed away to the Caribbean for the festivities.
Christmas Eve on Half Moon Cay
From the beginning of the cruise it was clear that you couldn’t really “skip” Christmas by taking a cruise (despite what the Cranks might suggest!). We were just taking Christmas with us. I had a personal, long-standing wish to spend Christmas under a palm tree I used to say.
Well, on Christmas Eve we found ourselves on Half Moon Cay, Holland America’s private island in the Bahamas, enjoying the pristine almost unreal beach, palm trees swaying overhead and Santa Claus para-sailing. Yes, that’s right. In full Santa regalia, he soared back and forth across the tiny bay. We even have photos!
The Christmas present issue was one of the most fun. We had a family agreement: we would each buy one present for the other two. The catch was that the presents – and the wrapping – had to be procured on the ship. No cheating.
So, Christmas shopping took place on Christmas Eve as we all split up and sneaked around the shelves laden with the inevitable perfume, jewelry (both fine and other), T-shirts, cruise-line emblazoned mugs and all the rest of the bits and pieces that the boutiques sell. The wrapping was very interesting as we cajoled the shop people into parting with a few Christmas decorations to adorn the boxes. It was wonderful! Even sixteen-year-old Ian took his job seriously.
Ian didn't have to miss The Nutcracker after all!
Christmas day was one for the memory books as well. It started with a lazy breakfast in the specialty restaurant The Pinnacle (we were staying in a suite so this was our breakfast room). Later in the morning, after opening the presents under our table-top Christmas tree that we had arranged to have in the suite before boarding, we made our way to the grand foyer where passengers arranged themselves on three or four levels to imbibe eggnog and participate in a carol sing. Now, ordinarily carol sings are not our ‘thing,’ but on this occasion, we all took part happily, and when Santa arrived (via helicopter according to the captain), it was wonderful to see the children on board. Their excitement was contagious.
Later that day we decided that our Christmas day activity would be to count the Christmas trees on board. The public spaces were adorned at every corner it seemed with the most wonderful Christmas trees. So we toured the ship looking for trees and stopping for a drink here and there.
Then it was time to dress up – something we do love to do. Resplendent in format attire, we repaired to the dining rom and had our Christmas dinner.
The whole cruise was one to remember – and something that all three of us decided we’d do again sometime. Instead of skipping Christmas, we enriched the experience. Highly recommended!
Arenal Volcano puts on a light show every night it's not shrouded in cloud & mist.
Just mention to someone that you’re headed to Costa Rica or that you’ve just been to CR and inevitably they either gush about their own trip or lament that they have yet to check it off their list. Either way, it seems that Costa Rica lives up to its tourism promotion. That isn’t to say that there are not – how can we put this delicately?—some “issues” like bridges that would be condemned on this part of the North American continent and let’s not forget those crocodiles lounging below. But those are small points. The trick for the discerning traveler is to find a balance between truly getting the experience and having a luxurious experience. We think we found the balance.
Our first stop in planning the trip was to our trusty travel agent – did we say how much we adore Angela? Well, we do. Angela recommended one of her colleagues who is a Costa Rica expert to help us create the perfect, personalized tour. Maxine, the expert, suggested that we book a private guide to take us to a variety of places in the country – one who would pick us off and drop us off, sometimes for a several day stay, but every time he would return for the next leg. And so we planned 12 days starting and ending in San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica.
We flew in to the very modern airport in San Jose and were whisked by our guide and driver Senõr Mezza to the Marriott Hotel Costa Rica. A Latino-themed oasis not far from the airport in the middle of a massive coffee plantation area, the hotel provided us with a great place to begin to get acclimatized. The next day was off to the Pacific coast – to Manuel Antonio. Although it looks like it would be a short drive (it would be in this part of the world), the driving conditions mean that it will take hours to get there. Not to worry, the countryside is picturesque and our guide seemed to know everyone along the way, taking us to lunch at places that tourists never see. Wonderful! He even warned us when to close our eyes. That would be when crossing a river on a bridge whose road-bed one could see through to the crocodiles below. The planks would hold, he told us!
The living room of our suite at La Mansion Inn
Manuel Antonio is like no other place we’ve been. The national park is breathtaking with its rainforest and its seemingly endless miles of unspoiled beaches. We checked into our mini-suite at La Mansion Inn to find that we had been upgraded to the largest suite in the place. It was four days of bliss – even when the power went out as we readied ourselves for dinner one night. We found ourselves the only guests in the small dining room now completely candle-lit, and with one wall open to the garden, with the chef working feverishly with electricity from his generator. It was extraordinary.
We hired a guide to take us hiking into Manuel Antonio national park where we spied sloths, monkeys, miles of beaches and, surprisingly, very few other people. It was fantastic!
The view toward Manuel Antonio National Park from the balcony of our suite at La Mansion Inn.
When we left the Manuel Antonio area on the Pacific Cost, we headed inland and north to Arenal volcano where we checked into the Tabacon Spa and Resort for three days. We experienced the thermal springs and hiked in the rainforest – again with a guide who was also our guide for a small group tour by boat to the northern border where Costa Rica meets Nicaragua.
Our next stop was Los Suenos on the Pacific coast for one night at the Marriott resort there. A beautiful hotel on a wide, muddy beach, the Marriott here is less a Costa Rican adventure than an American refuge. It is very nice, but we could have been in any warm spot in the US. Comfortable but perhaps not quite the Costa Rican experience we were seeking. One night there was enough and then we were off again.
Before we headed back to San Jose, Senõr Mezza, our guide, insisted that we couldn’t leave until we had zip-lined across the canopy of the rain forest so he deposited us at one his favorite establishments. It was something that we had wanted to do, but were just a bit hesitant. Given his insistence that we would enjoy the experience, we could hardly decline. After being fitted out with the ‘gear’ including harness, gloves and helmet, we joined a small group of young Americans and began our tour, zipping from one platform to another.
Ziplining in the rainforest Costa Rica
When we reached the first platform, I noticed a young woman hugging the tree, now many meters above the ground. I asked her if she was afraid of heights. “Yes,” she said, “I’m terrified.”
But there was no going back. She had to zip-line from this platform ever onward – which she did. At the end, she was very relieved, but had faced her fear. Our fear had been less of heights (although Art does have that tendency and I’m just sensible enough to avoid them most of the time), and more of the “are we too old for this?” variety. Being over 50 (and one of us over 60), it seemed relevant. However, it is an experience that you must have, regardless of your age. If you’re fit enough to travel to Costa Rica at all, then you’re fit enough to try zip-lining. The views cannot be matched through any other experience. And there’s just something about having done it.
Back in San Jose, we toured the city – and if there is one point not to be missed it has to be the opera house, Teatro Nacional. Yes, the opera house. It is reminiscent of the opulence of the Opera Garnier in Monte Carlo, which was designed by the same architect as the Paris Opera (Garnier), so you can imagine its magnificence. Just sitting there in the orchestra, we could imagine the opera fans of a bye-gone era resplendent in their finery, horse-drawn carriages outside awaiting the final curtain.
Teatro Nacional, San Jose
Yes, Costa Rica is rich in history – but even more, it is rich in natural grandeur. They do live up to their tourist slogan: Pura vida!
Cape Spear: The eastern-most point on the North American continent
It is the easternmost point on the North American continent, and the city of St. John’s in Newfoundland (actually it’s Newfoundland & Labrador which is the official name of the province), Canada’s tenth province, is Art’s home town. Well, the easternmost point is actually Cape Spear, but that’s just a hop outside the city. Although he moved away many years ago, every time we go back to visit what is affectionately known as “the Rock”, we are blown away by the rugged beauty and the increasing cosmopolitanism. Recent offshore oil exploration and production have given an economic boost to the city that it hasn’t seen in some generations. And now, it’s the Canadian province with the most amazing advertising imaginable. (See the video we’ve posted at the end.)
But, maybe the most impressive promotion for the city of St. John’s itself is the CBC television show The Republic of Doyle. If you watch that show in HD, you can’t help but notice that St. John’s is one of the characters. And although we’d venture a guess that the colors have been enhanced, St. John’s truly is a character.
The last time we visited was for a high school reunion – the reunion of a class that graduated so many years ago it’s hardly worth mentioning! But, we had a chance to play tourist in a city that we actually thought we know so well.
As you fly into St. John’s, it’s easy to think that you’ve ended up at the end of the earth – as your plane reaches the shoreline of Newfoundland you begin to get a sense of place right from the start. And you must remember to keep an eye out for icebergs (at any time of the year – but in the spring in particular). St. John’s is, by the way, the oldest English-speaking city on the North American continent. With a population that’s shy of 200,000, the city itself is not large but if you seek them out, you’ll find all kinds of amenities that are worth the trip.
We’ve stayed at most of the better hotels over the years – the Delta and the Hotel Newfoundland (which has been under a number of banners, most recently the Sheraton but it used to be a Fairmont) – which are also the most expensive. Recently, we’ve stayed at the Courtyard Marriott which is well-located on the harbor-front , has immense suites with great views, a lovely little bar with a view of the “narrows” that frame the harbor entrance looking out to open ocean, is reasonably priced, and because it’s a Marriott property, has wonderful staff.
At Battery Park overlooking St. John's: Son Ian made the pilgrimage with us that year
St. John’s is well-known as the North American city with the most bars per square foot than any other. We can’t provide any source for that statistic, but trust us, if you take a summer trip to the city and wander downtown to George Street as you must, you will not dispute this statistic at all! But for our money, these discerning travelers are smitten with the fine dining scene in St. John’s. There are many fine restaurants along Water Street including Bianca’s which is worth a visit, but our current favorite is Bacalao on Lemarchant Road, which is known for its quintessential Newfoundland cuisine using local products. It even won a national award for “hyperlocal food” recently. We’ve eaten there several times, and both the service and the innovative food offerings make a return trip there in the future a must.
The there is a bit of shopping…do not go to the malls in St. John’s. You will be disappointed. But do go to the boutiques for women’s clothing. Along Water Street, my personal favorite is Johnny Ruth. Oh, the owner has created a gem of a space with a truly inspired and well-edited collection of often Canadian designers. I’ve bought Comrags and Brenda Beddome there in addition to a number of others. Also nip into Twisted Sisters Boutik while you’re on Water Street.
The Rooms, St. John's: Art & Ian take in the view of the narrows
No visit to St. John’s would be complete without a visit to The Rooms. The name is a bit misleading – this is an architectural masterpiece that is truly uninspiring from the outside. But step inside and it’s a different story. Beside the fact that The Rooms is an extraordinary museum with all manner of Newfoundland history , both natural and other, it has the most amazing view of the harbor and beyond from a window that was artfully situated to provide just such an experience.
On our most recent visit there, it was Saturday, it was raining heavily and there were two bridal parties taking refuge for photo shoots. The window makes a dramatic backdrop.
Now that Art’s parents are both dead, we have less reason to visit than we used to. But we’ll make the trek from time to time – just for the food and Johnny Ruth!
(Flight times: from Halifax it’s an hour and twenty minutes; it’s 3 hours and 34 minutes direct from New York on United).
A sample of the Newfoundland and Labrador advertising campaign…
The Discerning Travelers 
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